My good friend, Mike Martini, whose family bought Monte Rosso in the late 1930s, shares a couple of blocks with me every year. At 1,200 feet elevation, this is a classic mountain vineyard, resting firmly on the southwest side of the Mayacamas mountain range. Sitting above the fog line, the vineyard’s iron-rich soils are red, rocky and well drained. The old, head-pruned vines struggle for nutrients and the rich, concentrated fruit shows it.